Drill Drivers - Safety DIY TipsUp until recently drills were manually driven but technological advancements have led to the development of drill drivers that are powered by an electric motor. For numerous years these electric power tools have been the most popular and well-utilized tool around home but recently there has become a increasing trend towards cordless drill drivers thanks to the development of battery technologies.
An Angle Drill is manufactured for use in tight areas. Their main feature is the angled neck. Unlike a conventional drill, an Angle Drills profile allows the drill to be utilized at arms length and in areas where the body of a drill would not allow it access. While they may not be able to deliver the power and torque of a conventional drill they are incredibly handy tools, especially around the home. An example would be drilling a hole on the inside of a drawer to mount a handle, positioning a normal drill could be awkward but the body of an Angle Drill would rise out of the drawer leaving plenty of space for the operators hand.
An adjustable clutch is what separates electric from cordless drill drivers. Located just behind the chuck, the clutch disengages the drive shaft of the drill, making a clicking sound, when a preset level of resistance is reached. The result is that the motor is still turning, but the screwdriver bit isn't. A clutch offers you control so you don't strip a screw or overdrive it once it's snug. It also helps protect the motor when a lot of resistance is met in driving a screw or tightening a bolt. The number of separate clutch settings varies on the drill; better drill drivers have at least 24 settings. With that numerous clutch settings, you can really fine-tune the power a drill driver delivers. Settings with the lowest numbers are for small screws, higher numbers are for larger screws. Most clutches also have a drill setting, which allows the motor to drive the bit at full power.
Drilling softwood, hardwood, metal, and masonry all require different drill speeds. Harder materials or larger drill bits have to be worked at lower speed. Conversely, softer materials and smaller drill bits can be utilized at higher speeds. Look for a drill with variable speed. Variable speed allows the user to control the bit speed, indispensable when you plan on working different materials and accessories.
Nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries represent the latest breakthrough in batteries. They're smaller and run longer than standard nickel-cadmium (Nicad) batteries. NiMH batteries also pose less of a hazard when it comes to disposal than Nicads because they don't contain any cadmium, which is highly toxic. Makita, Bosch, Hitachi and DeWalt offer NiMH batteries, and other manufacturers will soon produce these power cells too.
Check out drill drivers in DIY centres noting their weight and balance. Try out vertical and horizontal drilling positions to see how comfortable you feel. Contoured grips and rubber cushioning on some models make them very comfortable, even when you're applying direct palm pressure. While you're at it, see how easy it is to change clutch settings and operate the keyless chuck.
An electric or portable (battery powered) drill can be a scary thing. But they aren’t hard to use. The most common drill drivers come in a pistol shape, making them easy to hold and use. The drill has a trigger you squeeze in order to make the drill bit rotate. Sometimes there is also a safety button located on the pistol handle that has to be pressed at the same time you squeeze the trigger in order to make the drill bit rotate. The battery pack is usually inserted into a docking station on the bottom of the pistol handle. Between uses the battery pack is charged in another docking station which is connected to an electrical outlet.
There will be occasions when you have to drill a hole at an angle. In these cases drill carefully. You can draw a pencil line on the material noting the angle and then try to follow that pencil guide as you drill. There are also angle guides you can use. Place these over the spot you want drilled with the guide calibrated at the correct angle. Insert the drill bit into the guide and drill away. If you are drilling completely through the material when the drill bit begins to exit out the other side of the material be careful, especially with wood. The drill bit exiting the wood can splinter the wood around the exit point. If it will show, you might want to sand it smooth. Better yet prevent the splintering by covering the exit point with masking or duct tape. The tape will decrease should not prevent the splintering.
Used for cutting large, fixed, diameter holes in wood or plastic a hole saw will usually cut up to a depth of 18mm though deeper versions are available. Best utilized in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws its way through the material. Sharpening might be undertaken with a fine triangular file - as for an ordinary saw. Like the Hole Saw above, combination saws can cut large holes but they consist of a number of different sized round saw blades, usually ranging from about 25 to 62mm in diameter. Normally the blade are secures by a radial screw in the 'head' with all blades other than the desired sized being removed before the screw is inserted to secure the required diameter blade. Best utilized in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws it's way through the material. Sharpening might be undertaken with a fine triangular file and 'setter' as for an ordinary saw. Forstner drill bits are utilized to form holes with a flat bottom, such as for kitchen cupboard hinges. Best utilized in a power drill held in a drill stand as there's little in the way of a central point. If utilized freehand, the positioning is difficult to control as there is no central pilot bit. Sharpening of the bit might be undertaken on an oilstone or with a fine file. A Wood Auger bit is ideal when drilling large-diameter, deep holes in wood or thick man-made boards. Generally an Auger bit might only be utilized in a hand brace. The bit will cut a clean and deep, flat bottomed holes. The single spur cuts and defines the edge of the hole while the chisel-like cutting edge removes the waste within the previously cut circle. The threaded centre bites into the wood and pulls the bit into the timber. This 'pulling' action means that the bit is really unsuitable for use in a power drill.
DIY Safety tips:
If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is dangerous. Switch off the power and remove the fuse for the relevant circuit before carrying out any work, or inspecting, either it, or the appliances connected to it. Never inspect, or carry out work on, any part of the system with the power on. Make sure that power cannot be inadvertently restored by someone else.
When painting, or using any material that generates toxic fumes or dust, keep the room well ventilated. Never smoke while painting or standing close to a freshly painted area.
Ladders are one of the main causes of DIY accidents. Erect the ladder according to the manufacturer's instructions. Never lean to one side as you could lose balance. Don't rush as you're more likely to have an accident. Carefully plan the job before you start work. Know your limitations and consult a professional should you are unsure. It's also a good idea to ask someone should they can help you.
Do not work with electricity in damp or wet conditions. If you MUST, always use an RCD. Always place the cable of a hedge trimmer or mower over your shoulder and keep it behind you at all times.
Keep children and pets away from the work area. Store all tools and materials out of their reach. Many products are toxic.
Thanks DeWalt for article.
